Paver & Concrete Sealers, Stains, and Cleaners in Scotts Valley, CA

There isn't one best sealer — there's the right one for the material and the finish you want. Penetrating sealers block moisture intrusion and chemical damage while leaving a natural look, and they typically last five years or more. Film-forming acrylic sealers enrich color and give a decorative glossy finish, and they need to be reapplied more often. Selecting a sealer approved for your specific paver or stone is the part that matters most.

A penetrating concrete sealer soaks into the surface, up to about half an inch, and forms an invisible barrier without a protective film. It stays breathable, which matters on exterior concrete surfaces where trapped moisture causes hazing. An acrylic sealer forms a film on top, deepens color, and produces anything from a matte finish to a high-gloss, wet-look finish. Solvent-based acrylics give deeper color enhancement and durability, while water-based sealers have lower odor and lower volatile organic compounds.

Using a paver sealer protects outdoor surfaces from moisture, UV fading, and weed growth. It blocks UV rays that fade stone and concrete pigment, resists staining from chemicals, rust, and organic debris, and minimizes moisture absorption, which keeps efflorescence — the white chalky deposit that surfaces on pavers — under control. A quality sealer also hardens polymeric sand in the joints, which blocks weed seeds and stops joint sand from eroding out.

Clean first, then let the surface dry completely. A thorough cleaning is essential for proper bonding, and applying sealer over dirt traps it permanently. Use a pump sprayer or garden sprayer, or a nap roller on smooth surfaces, and put it down in thin, even coats — over-application is what causes whitening and peeling. Multiple thin coats beat one heavy coat; let the first dry before applying the second.

Apply sealer when temperatures are between 50°F and 85°F with low humidity and dry weather ahead. Higher temperatures make the sealer set before it levels, and damp surfaces cause outright failure. Stable temperatures matter as much as the number on the thermometer, and the surface has to be completely dry — not just dry-looking — before anything goes on.

Glossy sealers can become slippery when wet, which is worth weighing on pool decks, steps, and anywhere in the shade. A penetrating sealer with its natural finish avoids the issue entirely. If you want the wet look on a surface that gets wet, ask about an additive that restores traction.

It helps by keeping water out. Moisture control is what prevents freeze-thaw cracking in pavers, and sealers resist salt damage from ice melt where that's a factor. Locally, the bigger issue is damp winters, which create ideal conditions for mold and mildew — a sealed surface is easier to clean and stays cleaner between washes.

Only with proper prep, and often not at all. Sealing over old sealer without stripping or scuffing it is one of the most common failures we hear about. Previously sealed surfaces usually need the old film removed before a new coat will bond. Tell us what's on there now, and we'll tell you what the surface needs first.

It depends on what's on them. The PROSOCO line covers oil and grease stain removal, heavy- and light-duty concrete cleaning, and efflorescence treatment. Pressure washing lifts general dirt, though on pavers, keep the pressure moderate so you don't blow the joint sand out. Whatever you use, the surface has to dry completely afterward.

Both take sealer well, and both usually require a film-forming product for the same reason — it brings out the color and texture. Exposed aggregate concrete looks noticeably richer when sealed, and stamped concrete relies on the sealer to keep its color from fading under UV rays. Surface porosity varies between the two, so bring photos, and we'll match the product.